Mac OS X Server
First of all i recommend you going with a cheaper faster internal SSD than what I describe here. This was done solely for convenience/fun.
What: 17 inch MBP 3,1 and a 48GB FileMate SolidGO Express Card
Be careful when buying express card drives. Make sure they actually use the Express Card bus and not the USB.
Pop this baby in and it sits perfectly flush.
Installing OS X is a breeze (and rather quick). Boot from a USB/Firewire image or use a good old fashioned DVD. After you choose a language hop over to Utilities and Disk Utility from the menu bar. Go ahead and Partition your Express Card Mac OS X. Choose Extended (not journaled) and then click options and make sure you make it GUID (Intel). After formatting just quit disk utility and it will return you to the main installer. Go ahead and start/finish the install, nothing special.
*note. i did not enable journaling because I was concerned with it shortening the life of my drive for more than one reason.
Booting doesn’t seem all that faster. Of course I forgot to time the original drives performance.
The good: I can now use the internal drive that came with my computer for a time machine backup or MP3’s and Video’s.
This things is pretty fast. Their Benchmarks: 65MB Write - 115MB Read (Sequential). My benchmarks: 65MB Write - 89.6MB Read with a 128MB file. A little off on the read but still fast enough for me. With the same benchmarking software my original drive gets 23.3MB Write - 23.9MB Read. So you can see by the numbers how much faster it is. The standard drive till outperforms with sustained write. A 1GB file on the SSD 22.9MB Write - 77.9MB Read. Original drive 38.5MB Write - 38.4MB Read. You will only notice this slowdown if you work with large files. But that is why we left the original disk attached inside.
All applications open drastically faster. Photoshop uncached is a second or two. Safari 4 is open before the damn thing even bounces.
One good thing about this is that at a moments notice I can rip it out of the mac bringing all my files with me rendering it unable to boot. All that a thief will be left with are my videos and movies, no personal information.
The bad: If you work with the lid shut connected to an external display this puppy will get HOT! And when it does…Spinning Beach Ball of Death. This has happened twice in the 4 months of ownership. Also once in a rare while it will get hung up for about 5 seconds. Usually happens in Safari, so who knows if it’s even the drive.
Overall I am very happy with this drive. Bad price compared to the internals that are now out there and slower as well. But a good boost of storage and speed that won’t make you rip apart the pain in the ass MBP.
So as of today pdanet and iphonemodem by addition still totally suck under iphone OS 3.0 (for both my 2G and 3G)
Of course like usual there is no email support for additions iphone modem (what’s new) and pdanet (une fabrics) says disconnects are reported by only a few in 3.0.
My solution is to go back to the roots, the beginning.
Enter the original iPhoneModem by zsrelay. This uses a modified version of srelay which was the old dirty original hack for tethering in 1.0.
(Jailbreak your device of course)
Step one is to remove pdanet or iphonemodem(addition) and even jay’s socks srelay if you have it.
In cydia search for zsrelay and install with all dependencies.
Reboot the iphone.
Create a wireless network in whatever (windows, ubuntu, mac os x)
i won’t explain this for each system but give that connection an ip of 192.168.1.2
Make the subnet 255.255.255.0 and router/gateway 192.168.1.1
You can dill in DNS with open DNS if you like - 188.8.131.52 and 184.108.40.206
Now back to the phone.
join the adhoc network you just setup.
click the arrow to the right of the network after joining and then click static.
Assign the following:
And again DNS with the above if you like.
Now go to your main setting page on the iphone and scroll down. You will see iphonemodem. Click it.
turn on all options (drains battery so i would recommend shutting off when not hooked to the wall or using)
Click advanced and turn on icon.
Exit out and make sure you can load a webpage still with safari on the iphone.
Go back to you computer and the easiest thing to do is download and install proxifier. (costs some dough but 30 day trial)
This will give you a systemwide socks so that any game or protocol will tunnel through it. And yes World of Warcraft or anything else.
After opening proxifier go to options menu and choose proxy options.
click add and type in 192.168.1.1 and port 1080.
Check the Socks v5 box and hit ok.
Now make sure in the proxy options that the check box next to 192.168.1.1 is checked and hit ok.
Lastly go to Options in proxifier and choose name resolution. set it to enable and hit ok.
Relaunch anything that uses the internet and you should be online. You always have to leave proxifier open when using this method. And typically launch it before anything else.
If you dont want to shell out money for proxifier you can individually set your apps to proxy, but this is limited to the app only and isn’t system wide.
In mac os x go to you airport settings (advanced) and click the proxies tab. Check socks proxy and set it to 192.168.1.1 and port 1080. Hit ok.
In firefox you have to set it in the actual preferences.
This works fairly well and at times seems snappier than pdanet.
Let me know how it works for you or if you have any questions.
Don’t throw that old 802.11b router out. If you have the ability to run a long ethernet cable to or near the end of your house that has a poor signal, you can extend your network without purchasing a branded “wireless access point”
Run a 25 or 50ft cable from one of the ports (labeled 1-4 if it is a 4 port router) of your main router towards or as close to the problem area.
Do not plug it into the old router yet.
Plug your laptop into the old router (port 1)
Check your documentation on how to logon to the routers configuration page. (Typically 192.168.1.1 or 192.168.2.1 are the most common, type either one into your web browsers address bar. Common default passwords can be found here)
Once logged in check to make sure this routers IP isn’t the same as your main routers IP. If it is, change the last number in the series (pick something in the 50’s should be fine)
Now still in this old router find the DHCP setting and turn it OFF. Your router will reboot (again if you had to change the IP above)
Still in the old router go to wireless settings and change the wireless name (the name of your wireless network) to the exact same name of your main routers wireless network.
ALSO: change the channel of this wireless network to something different from your main router. Typically 11 is the default so you should be safe changing it to 6 ot 7.
Now plug that long cord from the main router into one of the 1-4 ports of the old router.
Now if your laptops are set to get an IP automatically you will be all set to go, just give it a bit to establish that initial connection and get an IP (it takes a little longer than normal)
If you are having trouble resolving an IP feel free to manually set your IP address on your computer with the main router’s IP in the router/gateway box.
Your computer should now automatically switch to whichever signal is better without you having to do anything.
Im not saying these are the best, but they are pretty dang good and ones I use all the time. Best of all they are FREE and recognize a ton of cd/dvd burners.
Burn (website) features Data, Audio, Video and Disc copy with a single drive. It can burn Mac only, PC (Joliet ), Mac and PC Combo Data discs. Audio recording is straight forward with a drag and drop interface like the rest of the program. Video recording supports VCD, SVCD, DVD, DivX. And don’t worry about file conversions, this uses ffmpeg, which can pretty much convert any video file for you on the fly (to MPEG-2 in this instance) before burning the dvd. The disc copy feature is fairly self evident. Just pop it in a disc and hit copy, or drag and drop an image to burn it to disc.
CDBurnerXP (site) is pretty loaded with features even it were a paid app. Create images, music, dvd’ even blu-ray. It runs on almost all flavors of windows that are still relevant including the windows 7. Fairly simple interface and works with a ton of burners. Check out the features list.
EDIT: This is also working ok on the final beta build of 10.6 snow leopard. Will keep you posted about the release.
This is an oldie but the software has gotten better from back when I first used it. So the problem exists that you want to swap a drive between mac and windows. Naturally you think Fat32, and you would be correct. But you have a DVD.iso image that is greater than the 4 gig file size limit of Fat32. If only the mac could write to NTFS.
3 Step install process.
Install MacFUSE (from google)
Install NTFS-3G (If the link is broken just do a search for it)
If this post is older than a few months check out the official blog for the links to the latest packages (macntfs-3g)
Reboot the machine.
All your NTFS drives will be full read/write capable in mac os x.
Sometimes if you force reboot windows on your mac or it shuts down improperly (bootcamp) the NTFS drive will not mount on the Mac OS X side anymore. An easy fix to this is to just reboot into windows and make sure it shuts down properly.
This also gives you the ability to format a disk from mac os x to NTFS-3G that works in windows of course. Just open disk utility, click on the disk on the left hand pane (the disk not the partition) you want to partition, select the partition tab and choose how many partitions you would like from the drop down. Pull down the “Format” drop down and click “Windows NT Filesystem (NTFS-3G). If you plan to make this bootable make sure you click the options button at the bottom of the page and choose “Master Boot Record”. Done.
If you are running windows and want to read mac drives (HFS) the best solution I know of is mediafour’s Macdrive7 (mac drive 7). Cost is $49 as of this posting and it really works well. Gives you several options for filename compatibility when transferring, plus many more.